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Sunset

McCormack's Guides

Sunset, Inner Sunset

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Zip Code: 94122, 94116

On the Pacific. One of the largest neighborhoods of San Francisco. Will appear on some maps as Taraval. Sunset district borders but stands aloof from Golden Gate Park, the zoo and the Pacific. They attract visitors and tourists; the Sunset generally doesn’t. www.mccormacks.com

Middle class with upmarket prices.

Crime low to middling. Homes generally well-maintained. Streets clean. Graffiti rare.

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Population about 70,000 but some people place Forest Hills, St. Francis Wood and Parkside in the Sunset and put the population close to 100,000. The Sunset is defined alternately as a district including neighborhoods and as a neighborhood.

Glorious sunsets, balmy winters, mild summers — when the fog lifts. In the summer, it often doesn’t; many days cold, damp and dim. If you are buying or renting in the Sunset, think about the weather. Many love it, many hate it.

Commute good. By MUNI, about 30 to 45 minutes to downtown San Francisco. Shorter if you drive. BART station at Daly City. www.mccormacks.com

A neighborhood traditionally favored by immigrants and first-generation Americans on their way up and, usually, out (to the suburbs). Considered a good address, and with home values rising, attracting more professionals.

The district started to develop in the early 1900s, when streetcar lines were extended and the downtown ran out of building space. In the 1930s and 1940s, contractor Henry Doelger built thousands of homes on the sand dunes of the Sunset and set the architectural look of the district.

At that time, builders were wrestling with a new problem: what to do with the car. The horse, noble but stinky, had been shunted into the stable, separate from the house. The horseless carriage, now being mass produced, could be brought into the house, but where.

Doelger stuck it under the living room. The typical Sunset home is a two-story affair: garage on the ground floor, flanked by stairs to the second floor where you enter into the living room (directly over the garage.) The living room will often have a picture window to the street.

The kitchen is located beside or to the rear of the living room and off the hallway,  two bedrooms and one bathroom.

In many homes, a third bedroom and a second bathroom have been added. The garage will often contain a small bathroom and bedroom.

Lots 25 feet wide. No front yard or just a patch of grass. Small rear yard. Utility lines overhead.www.mccormacks.com

Pinched views of the Pacific but a few homes will have views. The Sunset starts in very low hills and gradually descends to the Pacific, where the shore flattens. Here and there a few hills rise, creating vistas but for the most part the terrain descends too gently for view lots. Even at the shore, which has some five-story buildings, the views are limited to the upper stories.

If you are driving or walking along the east-west streets, the ocean, unblocked by housing, can often be seen sparkling in the distance.

Stucco relieved by decorative balconies, tile and other knickknacks. Many homes are large enough for extended families or in-law units, a selling plus.

Doelger priced his homes at $5,000 each, which in the Depression was a lot of money but not an overwhelming amount, and as much as anything this defined the social character of the Sunset. It was built for people ascending into the middle class.

The Sunset is sometimes criticized for being bland — the White Cliffs of Doelger — but had it added views, rooms and more yard space, it would have priced itself beyond its intended market. Doelger's homes, many remodeled, now sell for well over $600,000.

First came the Irish, Italians and the Germans, immigrants or their children. As the initial wave grew old and the kids moved to the suburbs, many of the homes came on the market, to be purchased by Chinese immigrants or their children moving out of Chinatown. But the Sunset still retains quite a mix.

Ten or 20 or 30 years from now ... who knows ... the Sunset will probably catch the Hispanic middle class moving out of the Mission District. www.mccormacks.com

Fearing their children would lose their religion in public schools, the Irish and Italians in San Francisco and elsewhere built their own schools. Four Catholic elementary schools, two high schools were built in or near the Sunset. They serve as a sort of alternate school system and accept many non-Catholics.

On pleasant evenings, people jog or stroll to the ocean. Miles of beach. Besides playgrounds and Golden Gate Park, there’s a community center, a seniors center, social clubs, and Stern Grove, which offers popular Sunday concerts. Also the city zoo, municipal golf course and several libraries. Restaurants, coffee bars, and shops many and diverse: Irish pubs, Chinese diners, kosher markets. Most are concentrated on a few streets, among them Judah, Noriega, Taraval and Portal.

Increasingly, a good neighborhood for dining out. Stonestown Galleria, which includes a Macys and Nordstrom, is located just south of the Sunset. Many people shop at large discount malls in Daly City and Colma, a short drive down Highway 1.

See the shore for apartments and drive around Judah Street for homes built around the turn of the century.

Inner Sunset, which extends almost to the giant University of California Medical Center, a teaching-research institute, is sometimes broken out as a separate neighborhood. Hilly. Older, larger homes, more in tune with the Victorians of the nearby Haight. Located near Golden Gate Park. www.mccormacks.com

Many students and UC personnel live in the Sunset and Richmond districts. The students attend the University of California, the University of San Francisco, San Francisco State University and San Francisco City College, all located within a drive or bus ride of one to four miles.

• Great Highway, the shore road. When the winds blow and the ocean flexes its muscles, sand sometimes blows up from the beach and onto the highway. City dumps it back or removes it.

• In 2006 police officer Bryan Tuvera was shot to death by an escaped convict. Another cop returned fire, killed suspect.

 
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